The story of A-Ma (also called Mazu or Matsou) starts on Meizhou Island off the coast of the southeastern province of Fujian in China. A girl born there during the Min Dynasty was studious and quiet. Some say she was visited by a Taoist or Buddhist monk during her early teens who recognised her divinity. Legend has it, that she travelled long distances spiritually and saved people during typhoons. She died at the age of 28 while meditating and was transported to heaven.
Since her death, she has been elevated to Goddess of the Sea and is revered in many coastal regions. Temples to Mazu exist on many islands and coastlines in China and Taiwan. Most temples are built on a single level with multiple prayer halls behind each other. A unique temple to A-Ma is built on four levels into the hillside of a natural harbour.
When Portuguese merchants arrived at the natural harbour and asked the locals where they were, the inhabitants responded “A-Ma-Gau”, which means “The Bay of A-Ma”. Since then, the island on the southern side of the Pearl River estuary has been called Macao.
The temple is now frequented by tourists and worshipers alike. I suspect most visitors there at the same time I visited were also on organised tours so had to make the most of the downpour.
The prayer halls were richly decorated and red prayer charms were arranged around a tree growing in the temple complex.
The original construction of the round windows allowed a view over the harbour and may have served as a light source to guide fishermen home after dark. Unfortunately, the modern building now restricts this view across the water.
travel tales 